My go-to settings for candid shots on the Fujifilm X-S10

The Fujifilm X-S10 is a remarkably capable candid camera because it combines a small body with excellent stabilisation, dependable autofocus and controls that can be adjusted without taking your eye away from the scene. My aim is to keep the camera ready for ordinary moments: a friend crossing a Melbourne laneway, a child moving through a weekend market, or a stranger caught in the soft light outside a Sydney café.

Candid photography rewards readiness more than perfect technical discipline. I prefer settings that give me enough shutter speed to stop movement, a useful amount of depth of field and an autofocus system that does not become a distraction. The following setup is my reliable starting point, with small changes for bright Australian streets, indoor venues and fast-moving subjects.

Start with a flexible exposure setup

I usually shoot in aperture priority, with the aperture set between f/2.8 and f/4. This keeps the lens bright enough for available-light work while giving me a little more depth of field than shooting wide open. At f/2.8, a person’s face can stand out beautifully; f/4 is safer when two people are standing at slightly different distances.

The key setting is Auto ISO. On the X-S10, I set the minimum shutter speed to around 1/250 sec and allow the camera to raise the ISO as needed. For walking subjects, 1/250 sec is generally sufficient, while cyclists, children and energetic street scenes may need 1/500 sec. I would rather accept ISO 3200 than lose a spontaneous gesture to motion blur.

In bright Australian sun, particularly around Brisbane or Perth, I may use ISO 160 as the base and let the camera reach ISO 6400 indoors. Keeping exposure compensation available is more useful than chasing a perfect meter reading. I often dial in -1/3 EV to protect pale clothing and bright pavement, then adjust when the subject moves into shade.

Choose autofocus that stays out of the way

For most candid work, I use AF-C with a small single point or a compact zone. A single point gives me control when the background is busy, while a 3x3 zone is quicker when the subject is moving unpredictably. I avoid a large tracking box in crowded places because it can jump to a passer-by, sign or bright object.

Face and eye detection is valuable when I am photographing people at a relatively predictable distance. I keep it enabled for portraits and social gatherings, but switch to a single focus area when faces are turned away, partially hidden or moving through a crowd. The X-S10’s subject detection is helpful, although no autofocus mode can replace observing where the decisive moment is likely to occur.

Back-button focus is another worthwhile adjustment. Assigning autofocus to the AF-L button lets me separate focusing from the shutter release. I can focus on a person, recompose and wait without the camera refocusing every time I press the shutter. For quickly changing scenes, however, I return to the default shutter autofocus because simplicity is often faster.

Use film simulations and colour with intention

My everyday choice is Classic Chrome, especially for street scenes and documentary-style images. Its restrained colour and slightly firm contrast suit concrete, painted walls and late-afternoon light. For softer skin and subdued highlights, I use Pro Neg. Std, while Acros is my preference when the light is messy and the scene depends more on shape than colour.

I normally leave White Balance on Auto, with a small shift towards warmer tones when photographing under cool LED lighting. Auto White Balance handles changing conditions well when moving between shade and sun, which is common during a walk through Sydney’s narrow streets or a market in Adelaide. RAW plus JPEG gives me a finished file immediately while preserving flexibility for important images.

The X-S10’s JPEG colour is part of the enjoyment, so I do not treat film simulations as disposable presets. I make modest changes to Highlight Tone, Shadow Tone and Colour rather than building an elaborate recipe for every outing. Photographers interested in how newer Fuji sensors render fine detail can also read this 40MP sensor test, although candid timing still matters more than extra resolution.

Keep the physical controls ready

I set the front command dial for exposure compensation and use the rear dial for shutter speed when working in manual exposure with Auto ISO. This gives me a practical form of exposure control: I choose the aperture, set a firm shutter speed and let the camera manage sensitivity. It is particularly effective when clouds move quickly across Australian sunlight.

The electronic viewfinder is my main tool for candid work, but I keep the rear screen available for low-angle frames. I set the camera to high burst mode but use short bursts of two or three frames rather than holding the shutter continuously. This preserves decisive expressions and avoids filling the card with near-identical images.

Silent shooting can be useful in a gallery, quiet café or ceremony, but I use it carefully. Artificial lighting can produce banding, and an electronic shutter may distort fast movement. In Australia, where photographing in public is generally permitted but expectations of privacy still matter, I avoid intrusive close-ups and never record private conversations. State audio-recording laws can be stricter than people expect, so I keep the camera focused on still images.

Match the setup to the moment

No single configuration suits every candid scene. A casual walk through a Melbourne coffee queue needs a different balance from photographing movement at a local footy match. I save a few custom presets so I can change quickly without scrolling through the menu.

These are my practical starting points:

Situation	Aperture	Shutter speed	AF approach	Film simulation
Street walking	f/4	1/250 sec	AF-C, small zone	Classic Chrome
Café or indoor gathering	f/2.8	1/125–1/250 sec	Face/Eye AF-C	Pro Neg. Std
Children or cyclists	f/4	1/500 sec	AF-C, zone	Velvia or Classic Chrome
Quiet portrait moment	f/2.8	1/250 sec	Eye AF-C	Astia
High-contrast midday light	f/4–5.6	1/500 sec	Single point	Acros

I carry a spare battery because image stabilisation, the electronic viewfinder and frequent autofocus use can drain the X-S10 faster than a relaxed landscape session. A compact 23mm or 27mm lens keeps the camera unobtrusive, while a 35mm-equivalent option gives a natural perspective for conversations and environmental portraits. Australian camera retailers and the used market can make these compact lenses easier to find without committing to a large professional zoom.

For practical Fuji notes and photographic inspiration, I also keep this shooting resource bookmarked alongside my usual camera references. The best setup is the one that leaves enough attention for people, light and timing rather than menu adjustments.

These settings are a dependable foundation, not a rulebook. Load them into a custom mode, walk through a familiar neighbourhood and make small changes as the light and subjects demand. The X-S10 becomes especially enjoyable when its controls disappear and the camera is ready before the moment arrives.